This is a holiday week for us well, I mean a week we are not on the road or going to look at something everyday, just a time to draw breath as we reach the half way point of our trip. A six hour flight from Sydney and we are into the humid tropical air of Bali. It’s a warm welcome to all.

Coming to the end of the low season, the hotel we stayed in on Sanur Beach has been pretty quiet throughout the week as has the town in general, with many restaurants pretty empty and the t-shirt sellers desperate for a sale. The hotel is a very nice place to chill even though there is is fair bit of building work going on. 

Bali is known as the “Paradise of the Gods” and it is certainly unique however, I am not sure this title fits modern tourist Bali and certainly the sea and beach in our area are a disappointment. Look beneath the commercial and scooter mayhem though and there is undoubted beauty and culture here. The islanders themselves seem genuinely friendly. 

The one day that we left poolside, we headed up though the centre of Bali to explore temples, rice fields, coffee plantations and to admire Mt. Batur and it’s lake below. The views are quite spectacular. The green of the island really comes home as you climb into the mountains, the rice fields glisten in the sunshine.

We get a taste of Lowak coffee (that’s the one where the Lowak cat eats the beans, digests them and then the red beans are washed, peeled, roasted and made into coffee) £45 a small bag but £3 a cup gives us a taste. I’ll stick to Columbian! 

Lunch at Mt Batur is excellent as is the view of the volcano and lake. Final stop is the Goa Gajah temple famous for its ritual bathing and cleansing in it’s natural spring waters. We don’t partake to avoid the wet ride home but many people do. 

I think to really enjoy this island therefore, it’s really a case of travelling around it. 

Food out on the street is fantastic and there is plenty of choice. Meals are generally washed down with bottles of Bintang. It’s nice to meet up with Suzi and Kevin most nights for those late night beers and to share travelling tales. 

Our own travelling continues with a couple of days back in Sydney then it’s off to New Zealand next week.

Pete & Jules

  

It’s a Holden we pick up in Sydney and head off for the Blue Mountains which are just a couple of hours drive out of the City. We do seem to get stuck in the middle of a 3 Road Train race at one point which focuses the attention but soon, we are on the A roads and heading for the hills. 

We are staying for a couple of nights in a motel in Katoomba which is in the heart of the Blues Mountains. We can walk to the Three Sisters lookout which is quite breathtaking as are the next 24 hours in these hills. Soaring mountains and rainforest, it’s quite an incredible sight. 

Thursday and we head for a 9am start at Scenic World which, over the past 70 years has been providing tourists with cable car and train views of the mountains from the site of an old mine.

9am is the time to beat the tourists who coach in everyday from Sydney and arrive around 10.30 am. The actual attraction has also changed considerably over the years and now boasts the highest cable car in Australia as well as the steepest railway, both of which we enjoy straight away.

We then head into the National park and into the rainforest itself on one of the trails. Two hours of walking takes us deep into the forest and we are on our own. All you can hear are the birds singing. We retrace our steps out and head back up the mountain on a cable car. 

Back in the car we drive to Evans Lookout and a magnificent view and one that seems off the main tourist circuit, just 4kms off the main road. We then follow the road around some towns and lookouts ending up in Blackheath for a coffee and no cake, yes you read it right no cake :).

That evening loading the camera picture card contents to my iPad, I mange to wipe all the photos off the picture card. Backup lost and two days worth of camera pictures lost. Let’s pray the iCloud thingy works otherwise we will have to do this Australian trip all over again!!!!

So Friday, it’s a quick walk back to the three sisters to re-take some photos only to be greeted by some very low cloud which initially obscures all views but makes for some great photos.

The sun starts to break through so we head back to the honeymoon bridge and onto one of the pillars, where we get our photos retaken. Back over the bridge we head to another lookout on the opposite side of the stairs and watch the birds swooping onto the rocks opposite. One parquet takes off from the rock, lands on the rail where we are standing and sits there while we take some pictures. A real rock star!!

Back on the road for a longer than expected drive to Port Macquarie around five hours, does see us lunching in Swansea, which is a town on the road just before Cardiff after which you come to a much bigger town called Newcastle.

We went into the information centre in Swansea to ask the young lady if there was a town sign anywhere so that Julie could have her picture taken as she comes from near Swansea in Wales. I don’t think that this was the first time she had been asked this question so, she expertly directs us to the town sign.

Swansea she described as a place where people come fishing and for a chilled time. It does seem a nice town.

We arrived in Port Macquarie in time for a very nice sunset and fish & chips for dinner. The place itself is not really the small fishing town we expected, more like a bustling seaside town full of holidaymakers, should be fun.

Saturday and we find a nice place for coffee and toast for breakfast before we head off on our walk along the coastal trail which is just stunning. Glorious bay after glorious bay. The beaches are wonderful. Three hours walking and we are back in time for a well deserved ice lolly!

We are also back in time for a 3pm visit to the Koala hospital for the talk and feed session with these cuddly creatures. 

There is also the Roto House, Victorian architecture, high ceilings, slash windows, fan lights and fireplaces with a verandah all around the house. A historic building indeed and fascinating family history.

That evening we sit on the hill at Tacking lighthouse to watch the sun go down on another lovely day.

Sunday we head back down the Pacific Highway. Stuck in our first traffic hold up on the way down, for what looked liked a horrific accident, we change our plans and head for a nice little town on the river called Tea Garden for a stop.

We get to Wahroonga early afternoon to stay with a couple of friends Serena and Brent. Another excellent Aussie Barbecue and fine hospitality which is much appreciated by us both.

It’s Bali next!

Pete & Jules 
  

  

WOW what a shock to the system, a BIG City with LOTS of people and cars. We landed in time for a Friday rush hour drive to the hotel. Our next 5 nights are in a hotel and a time when we can actually unpack our bags for a while.

We step out onto Darling Harbour to experience the bright lights of Sydney and we find out that this is Mardi Gras weekend so, as you would expect the place is absolutely Friday night buzzing.

We choose the Ferry as our transport for the day on Saturday. It’s a really great way to see Sydney from the harbour and no more than $15 per day. The ride from Darling Harbour to Circular Quay is spectacular because it takes you right under Sydney Harbour bridge so, the excitement as you wait to turn the corner and see the bridge and the world famous Opera House for the first time is brilliant.

We change ferries and head across to Manly for the day. As soon as you get off the ferry you can tell Manly is a place for the locals and the young locals at that. The Australian Open Surfing Championships are underway and the beautiful beach bodies are everywhere to been seen. Blimey we feel old!!

It’s a beautiful & hot day, as we stroll around, eventually finding some shade and chilling out. Lunch and an ice cream then it’s a 30 minute return journey on the ferry which, shares the waterways with hundreds of yachts. A glorious sight indeed. Back into Sydney Harbour we head for the Opera Bar which extends from the Opera House along the harbour wall, so you end up having a beer looking at the Sydney Harbour Bridge.  

Evening in Sydney post Mardi Gras parade and the place is packed to bursting. Great atmosphere and a great place for people watching is found on a pavement restaurant! 

Sunday and we meet up with old friend Zoe who very kindly takes us on a walk-a-bout of the city, we walk by the river and over the Harbour bridge for a marvellous view looking back on the city. After lunch in the Rocks we cover more of the city, it’s brilliant having a local to show you around. Thanks Zoe!

That evening it is our first gig at the Sydney Opera House. A beer in the fabulous long bar watching the sunset. Sleater Kinney are on fine form but are not Julie’s cup of tea. Still, we do have that Sydney Opera House gig under our belts! 
We hang around for the last ferry which is the cheapest way to see the night lights of Sydney!

Monday Morning again but not the same feeling as 12 months ago! Pete’s first Aussie haircut is a success and we wander the shops in search of shorts for Julie and a post office so that Pete can send home the leaflets that he has been collecting on the trip so far.

Coffee with another old friend Serena is lovely and we then meet up with Kim who is visiting her son Nick so perfect timing!! It’s a hot and humid day and we have a melting stroll around the botanical gardens relived by cold drinks in the park! A few beers and a Thai for dinner and we are really to hit Bondi beach tomorrow.

Next morning we get the bus from the city and 30 minutes later with the temperature reaching 30 we are at Bondi beach. Most of the kids must be in college this Tuesday morning because the beach has plenty of space, aaah, they are out on the waves, surfing!! 

We spend the day on the magnificent coastal walk from Bondi to Coogee and back. 12 kms stopping off for swims at different bays, coffee and ice cream. Our friend Kim sets the pace so we end up with a cracking day’s exercise.

We spend our final Sydney evening (before the end of the month) on Darling Harbour enjoying a steak and Ice cream before its time to pack our bags again and hit the road.

Pete & Jules 

  
 

A quiet night in Alice as it’s an early start for our four hour coach ride to our Base Camp for the next few days at the Yulara, Ayers Rock Resort. Our transfer involves a few stops, most impressive being the Mt. Conner lookout, with the rock on one side of the road and a massive salt lake over the red sand dune, on the other side of the road.

We are using a coach company over the next few days called AAT Kings. The big boys on the block but, as is evident from this first trip, drivers and guides are very knowledgeable and respectful of the roads they drive and give an enormous amount of time to educating their passengers about the local people and history.

We learn about the Aboriginal nation, past and present. The Anangu people in particular whose land we will be spending our time on over the next few days. Also a lot of information flows on the geology of the area. 

We are now in the middle of Australia, there or thereabouts, known as ‘The Red Centre’ and the heat does not disappoint (we remain well into the forties everyday). The sand is also deep red and being where we are, a fly net is essential.

Our first excursion is dubbed ‘The Sounds of Silence Dinner’ on our first evening in the resort. This takes us out to the edge of the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. We spent a very enjoyable evening with a group of Australians from Perth and Americans from Salt Lake City.

The undoubted highlight was when they turned off the lights in our compound and we turn our heads skywards. The stars were completely amazing. There are few words that can describe the wonder of what we saw above our heads that night. Pluto, The Southern Cross, Orion’s Belt, a shooting star, just a sky full of stars, it was all truly unforgettable (we surely can’t be alone?).

Next morning it’s a gentle start and we are back in hotel breakfast mode. A wander around the resort as the temperature climbs, we settle down to a talk from some modern day Indigenous guys on hunting weapons used by their ancestors. 

A couple of really interesting facts also come out; it’s the Grandparents who teach the Grandchildren whilst, the parents are out hunting and gathering. Also, many areas of the national park are absolutely sacred to the Anangu and photographs are not allowed. 

In the afternoon with a temperature of 43 degrees we head out to the magnificent Kata Tjuta range. Millions of years ago this was underwater and joined to Uluru, which can been seen to its right many kilometres away from our current viewing platform. 

Both Rocks are incredibly tall and vast, and both extend 5 to 6 kms back into the earth. It is easy to be humbled again, that’s twice after the sky the night before, in under 24 hours.

There are three walks on this trip, the second and third around 2-3 kms which in the extreme heat were challenging but walkable. Both walks take you into one end of the mountain into the gorges. Another walk is closed because of the heat. 

The coach carries a massive supply of ice cold water and as it turns out ice cold beer for the sunset potion of the trip. A small group of 17 with a few Brits and some nice young folk from South Korea who were having a real ball (particularly when the wine & beer appeared).

Our last full day is Julie’s birthday and what better way to celebrate than by watching the sunrise at Uluru. An awe inspiring site close up and watching the colours change as the sun rises is magical.

The rest of the day is chilling around the pool, and visiting the Kulata Academy Cafe ( run by students) for another cool milkshake. A nice Birthday dinner and then it’s off to Sydney tomorrow!

The last few days have been amazing. 
Pete & Jules

  

A taxi ride to the Parklands Rail terminal in Adelaide to begin our Ghan experience. This begins as soon as the taxi door opens and there are two Ghan people there to help you with your baggage.

The Ghan, all 39 carriages long is our transport to Alice Springs and luxury transport it certainly is. Powered by two locomotives the train is an awesome sight. Our cabin consists of a sofa that converts to bunk beds and en suite. Each section of train has its own lounge and dining car.

The true spirit of the Ghan though is the people on board. With an all inclusive ticket for food and drink, people relax and start chatting quite quickly. Australian Veterans get a subsidy on the Ghan, a concession that ends in June, so  understandably people are taking up the offer whilst they still can. 

We end up talking to a couple of Vietnam Vets who explain the woes of their country at present. During the course of the journey we meet many people from many countries and walks of life. Very interesting indeed. 

The overwhelming message that comes through from the Australians is that, you need to get out into the great outdoors for as long as you possibly can. That is definitely the ethos here. Grey Nomads make up a high proportion of passengers on this train. Apparently in OZ the sale of second hand caravans almost matches that of second hand cars.

Food and wine on the Ghan is first class as is the service. So it’s bar, lunch, rest, bar (Pete spots his first pair of Kangaroos out of the window!), dinner, bar ….. bedtime. Not a rocking motion on the train to send you to sleep more a push, pull motion that does send us into the land on nod-off eventually.

Up at 5.30am to watch drawn break, the train comes to a halt in the middle of the bush at Marla. Guided by lanterns we step off the train onto the red dust of the desert. A warm morning and the star filled sky is amazing. Coffee & bacon & egg rolls are served as we watch the sun rise.

Back on the train and we continue across the bush into the Northern Territory  to Alice Springs where, our magnificent journey on the Ghan comes to an end. Unforgettable!

Alice marks the start of the second month of our trip, it’s off to Uluru (Ayers Rock) tomorrow.
 

Pete & Jules

  
Dawn on The Ghan

24 Feb: Today we woke up to pouring rain in Mount Gambier. We headed off for Meningie via Robe. 5 hours on the road with a stop for breakfast at the seaside town and fishing port of Robe which, for a wet Wednesday was quite bustling. 

Extreme scenery throughout the drive, open plains, dense forestry and by the time we get to the Coorong National Park, miles and miles of salt lakes. We stopped off at the Salt Lake Creek Roadhouse for a coffee but, Pete was denied a stubbie or sticker.

Arriving in Meningie the first impression was like a ‘one horse town’ but this place is on the lake, in the the heart of the Coorong Wetlands and is teaming with bird life. Lovely locals and a chance to chill.

An industrious afternoon in the laundrette & supermarket and we are ready for pasta and red wine. After dinner it was time for a rather spectacular sunset viewed across the lake from where the Pelicans were settling down for the evening. An unexpected plus!

25 Feb: We have pretty much completed the road trip now, being within easy reach of Adelaide, but still with 3 days on the car hire, we headed for Hahndorf, the earliest German settlement in Australia via Strathalbyn the earliest Scottish settlement in SA.

Strathalbyn is a beautiful town and we did venture another 30km down to the coast to Goolwa which had a superb surfing beach. Locals just seemed to turn up in their 4×4’s, drive along the beach, park up and hit the waves. What a life eh?

Hahndorf looks just how a German village would look like back in Germany itself so, it’s a bit weird being in the Adelaide Hills at the same time! Lots of history and expensive shops. The main local beerkeller stocks German beer, which I guess being imported makes 2 beers more expensive than lunch! We settle for ( very nice) fish & chips for tea.

26 Feb: We decide to take the car back a day early and spend the extra day day in Adelaide. We call in to Stirling, another nice town in the Adelaide Hills for coffee on the way to Mount Lofty which gives incredible views of the city from it’s peak. A hazy day but still a great view and you can also go on walks in the bush from the top to the bottom or vice versa. Many locals jog up or bike up daily.

We are settled into our apartment in Adelaide just after lunch and head out to explore the City which we were under the impression was a quiet place. Strolling down Rundle Street and that elusion is quickly shattered. We have arrived in the middle of the Adelaide Arts Festival and the Fringe has taken over the City with comedy, dance, music and general good vibes. 

After a bit of shopping and tea we head out to Kent Town for a gig by John McCarthy, a £10 pom and longtime Canberra resident. I think it’s a bit too far out of town for most people as in the end the audience only totals 10. So we get an intimate gig. The guy has a 10 year back  catalogue, so it’s close to a 2 hour show. 

We called in at one of the parks where the fringe is being held on the way back to the apartment to see what is going on and the place was buzzing.

Saturday: First time we are staying in the same place for more than one night for a while, so no rush this morning. We head out around 10am and just walk around the city till early afternoon taking in the city landscape, Central Market (where everyone seems to go for breakfast on a Saturday) various churches and the very impressive Oval Stadium (can’t persuade Julie to take a tour) and we end up at Adelaide Writer’s Festival.

This is a very walkable city with everywhere signposted and times it take to get to places when walking. It’s a beautiful day and a cloudless blue sky as we head back through the main City Centre to Rundle Park where the Fringe is progressing. There is great music on the Bandstand from Glenn Skuthope. His Australian brand of Americana is perfect for a sunny afternoon and a cold beer.

All the shops shut at 5pm on a Saturday and Saturday night seems to be the night for going out, crowds were the equivalent of 6th St in Austin at SXSW with the fringe on so, we left this Saturday night to the kids 🙂 

It’s the Ghan train to Alice Springs tomorrow.

Pete & Julie 

  

21 Feb: Farewells  to our Australian family in Melbourne, we pick up our (upgraded) hire car from Avis (a sporty Ford) but, only after having to evacuate their office after a fire alarm and the arrival of 3 fire engines.

Good map reading from Julie and it was a trouble free exit from the City and we were on The Great Ocean Road within a couple of hours. Lovely coastline straight away. We drove to Lorne after quite a few stops for photos on the way.

Lorne is a lovely seaside town, nice beach, boutique shops and great ice cream! We are staying on our first campsite of the trip. All very chilled and laid back with Harley riders, tourists and locals. Self cooked Tuna Pasta for tea is not only heathy for us but also for the budget 🙂

22 Feb: What a spectacular day of driving! Right from the very off the scenery took sharp contrasts, from coastal views, to lush hillsides, to dense bush, to burnt out bush, to grasslands full of sheep, to tall cliff faces. Add to that the weather; light rain to start, overcast, humid, then sunny and very warm, then the last two hours of the day on the twisty sections to our eventual stop at Port Campbell, heavy rain!  Just amazing and a driving dream ….. If you ever get the chance to drive this road, it’s a must do.

Firstly today it was scenery on the outskirts of Lorne. ‘Teddy’s Lookout’ gave plunging views down onto the Great Ocean Road, that made it look like a Scalextric track. Then on to Erskine Falls, one of the few waterfalls with water in the area, due to a drought.

Next it was the drive to Kennett River which passed the scene of the recent fires and the road had a couple of roadwork sections where repairs were being undertaken. Koalas in the tree at Kennett made for many camera lenses being pointed skywards. Brilliant to see these animals in their Gum Tree homes.

Lunch stop at Apollo Bay was followed by a walk through the Rain Forrest at Maits Rest, another amazing experience. Then it was off to the Southernmost tip of Australia at Cape Otway and a visit to the famous lighthouse there.  Yet another  history lesson. 

4.30pm ish and for the first time this trip we have not booked our lodgings for the night and our inti enquiries found all the campsites full. The rain came down, the roads became challenging as we headed for our eventual overnight stop at Port Campbell. 

23 Feb: Our last day in Victoria and it’s a spectacular send off on the coastline containing the 12 Apostles and other cliff formations that have formed since breaking away from the mainland. The coastline is just breathtaking. All these rocks will be reclaimed by the sea at some point but for now visiting Gibson Steps, The Twelve Apostles,  The Arch, London Bridge, The Grotto, Bay of Martyrs and Bay of Islands is an awesome experience.

We complete the Great Ocean Road just before Warrnambool and the it’s the Princes Highway next. Warrnambool itself is a big town, quite a shock to hit roundabouts and traffic lights again!

Lunch at Port Fairy is excellent, we have discovered all the smaller towns have a bakery and coffee shop with excellent rolls for lunch (and custard tarts). Port Fairy is tiny and has a lot of old time charm. The 40th Port Fairy Folk festival is in March.

Last stop in Victoria is Nelson, where we ended up chatting to John and Linda who were on their first road trip after  John had collapsed and ended up with a triple heart by-pass operation in 2014. Good luck to them! 
We crossed the border into South Australia, turned our watches back 30 minutes and powered on across wide open farmland and some immense forests. A road shared with a whole host of logging trucks, with their foot to the metal (fortunately all going the other way!).

Mount Gambier is famous for its Blue Lake (in the summer) and Sink Hole. The former is totally blue, quite naturally and the latter is an amazing horticultural and animal paradise. We went in the evening and by chance Julie got to feed a possum! …. Dolphins, Possums, what’s the third one?

Onwards to Adelaide!

Pete & Jules 
  

Last day in Fremantle and a chilled day it is. A visit to the local coffee shop for breakfast, some shopping and then an early afternoon run to the airport for our afternoon Virgin flight to Melbourne. I watched the excellent ‘Slow West’ a western directed by Beta Band man John Maclean.

Arriving in Melbourne at midnight local time we were met at the end of the walkway off the plane by Cheryl and Kerry, a lovely surprise. 3 hours in front and a cooler temperature it’s an hours drive to Croydon. 

Overnight rain and it’s a cloudy and grey day for the most of our first day in the City. With Cheryl & Kerry as our tour guides we stroll around taking in the river, Flinders Street Station which is a cool building, ending up at the Block Arcade where we had arranged to meet Joe and Carolyn two friends of Pete’s Mum & Dad, who had met on a plane journey from Singapore to London back in the 80’s and had remained friends.

A lovely lunch for us all at the Hopetoun Tea Rooms which is a restaurant with a perennial queue outside and tremendous cakes. The Block Arcade is actually quite special with priceless ceramic flooring and architecture.

A lift ride up to the 88th floor of the Eureka Building gave spectacular views over the city. Melbourne city itself felt like a smaller version of London. Plenty of galleries, museums, coffee shops, nooks and crannies.

We are based in the suburbs close to the fabulous Yarra Valley and that’s where we headed for dinner, in a fabulous restaurant with great company and a fine steak. We had a tremendous first day and feel well at home in Melbourne.

17 Feb: Second full day and we really do feel at home as it’s chilly and pouring with rain! Our intrepid hosts however were unperturbed and we headed off up the hills to the Dandenong Ranges. Great cycling and coffee country, we stopped at Sassafrass for cakes and coffee. 

After lunch we headed for Phillip Island and the penguin parade. A lovely seaside town which hosts the Australian Moto GP and a great spot. Our friend Jodie works in town so it’s the ideal time for a reunion. The Penguin Parade is a massive enterprise now with coach loads of people turning up to watch the Fairy penguins leave the sea and head for their burrows each evening.

The set up is excellent and copes easily with the crowds. No photography allowed (understandably) we had tickets for the underground viewing bunker so, after a Park Ranger gives us the background to the activity we are about to see, the first penguins start to waddle ashore around 20.35 and pass our eye level viewing position.

After 45 mins it’s back up to the boardwalk to watch these animals find their way to their burrows. There are hundreds of them. Another fascinating experience for us.

18 Feb. Today we are heading out to the Mornington Peninsula for an overnight stay at our friends beach house in Rye. Heading up the mountain (passing various cyclists) to Arthur’s Seat which, provides spectacular views of the coastline and Pacific Ocean below. After lunch ( a blueberry bun, keeps us on our 5 a day schedule) Point Nepean National Park is out next destination and yet again more fantastic scenery.  

Point Nepean played an important role in shaping Victoria’s early settlement quarantine procedures where early settler’s and their belongings were examined on arrival in the state. Many buildings still exist including the hospital. 

The look out at the Point onto the sea and, the entrance to Melbourne harbour was also a wartime strategic vantage point and gun emplacements and army buildings and tunnels are still in place for everyone to see. The first shot from the British Empire was fired from this point in WW1.

A drive further along the coast to Portsea & Sorrento and the views on this peninsula are nothing short of amazing.

In the evening we had our first Aussie BBQ cooked by Trev and washed down with some Fremantle beer.

19 Feb; today it was outdoor hot tubs at the Peninsula Hot Springs which was very nice for a Friday morning followed by Fish & Chips in Rye. This evening it’s party time again with Jodie arriving from Phillip Island for the weekend! 

20 Feb; if the views have been magnificent so far, our day Road Trip through the Yarra Vally, up through the Black Spur, to Eildon then onto the Eildon Dam were mind blowing. A lot of the areas ravaged by bush fires back in 2009 are now regenerated. The trees on the Black Spur look like they reach the sky in the densely backed forest as we drive through. 

Lunch overlooking the reservoir before heading across the dam with it’s spectacular sencery up to Mt. Pillinger Outlook where the views were breathtaking. We stopped at Marysville on the way back. This small town is the centre for a ski resort in winter but back in 2009 it was almost destroyed by the fires. The town itself looks to be back on its feet but the scars of those fires, where the town was surrounded by flames must still run deep. 

Thanks to Trevor for the driving and Happy Birthday Cheryl!

A family BBQ tonight before we say farewell to our friends in Melbourne was awesome. Ending with sitting around the fire under a star filled sky, listening yo Ryan Abams & the Cardinals & some cowboy hat country. 

As with everyone on this trip so far, we have to say thanks from the bottom of our hearts for allowing us to share their family life as we pass through their towns.

  

  

Pete & Jules
  

A unique way to spend Valentines Day at our very first Australian festival. The Laneway Festival series kicked off in Singapore two weeks ago and has travelled around the major cities of Australia before, it’s final stop of the year in Freemantle.

It’s a scorching day in Freero. Four stages (the main stage doubles up with two stages) and everything is well within walking distance. Early arrivals get the benefit of a spacious site to wander around as well as seeing first band on, the very talented Fait. Post Rock in the sunshine with big electric soundscapes. 

Next band on the next door main stage are High Tension, a metal band who came on to a Stars Wars soundtrack. A big thing to live up to and not quite up to that level yet but, a competent band nevertheless. 

The crowd starts to grow and everyone heads to the shade of the trees from where you can still see the main stages. Next up some indie pop from End of the Road festival bound, Methyl Ethel then it’s a short walk to the Mistletone stage for Toronto’s mighty Metz. Just out of bed, into the heat, rocking at full pelt, sweet drenched shirts and body shaking songs. A great set.

East India Youth was on the ‘Red Bull Future Classic stage’ (both Metz and East India Youth would have been much higher up the bill back home) and again a great set. For a one man show, Will Doyle just gets better and better with each show. It should not take long for Australia to catch on.

DllV prove to be the perfect band for a hot afternoon. Bouncy and lively, bright songs tinged with a surf rock feel. Now the site is getting really packed, the heat remains. Getting close to to maim stage starts to become difficult. Best to adjourn to the craft ale bar and watch form afar.

The DMA’s, a bit like Oasis meets the Pouges, are a grower in the afternoon sun and a band needing more investigation. Fidlar from L.A. blast away in blazing sunshine with their Garage Rock blend of high octane Rock n’ Roll. A very solid set indeed.

Big Scary are on the opposite stage next and are a very soulful 5 piece. One of the most mellow bands of the day. Royal Headache on the Mistletone stage get the Bon Scott award of the day. Lead vocalist, Shogun is in inspired form, on the last gig of the tour. Shirtless and rocking, the crowd lap it up.

Late afternoon brings ‘The Freemantle Doctor’ in (daily afternoon wind) and a lovely breeze drives across the site. The Smith St Band draw a massive crowd for their anthems but the band that takes us from daylight into night, is New York’s Battles. Still one of the most original bands around, the crowds latch onto the rock, jazz, electronic soundscapes and are bouncing from the off. All the bands seem in party mode being the last night of the tour.

We stay at the Mistletone stage into the night which is more comfortable than the main stages and the reward is the dreamy Beach House who play an awesome set.

We catch the last half hour of Chvrches set, the band seem to have had a triumphant Laneway. They certainly seem to be the most talked about band of the festival. Last band of the evening are Purity Ring. A 2 piece, synths and vocals with a great light show and big songs.

A great day festival which if we looked for a comparison closer to home would be Field Day I reckon, with its mix of indie and electronic bands. Oh and the sunshine!
Pete

  

On the road for 08.30 and heading south. A 4 1/2 hour drive brings us back to Geraldton, where we stopped for fuel on the way up.
Far from being the new town I thought, Geraldton is rich in history. Land removed from the Aboriginal inhabitants and built by settlers and up to 10,000 male convicts. There are legends of shipwrecks and much more. So we will spend a couple of days here discovering. 

Late afternoon we discovered what must be the perfect surfers beach. People seemed to turn up after school and work for a surf or swim in the sea. Now that must be special! 

A morning of history lessons on this fascinating town which was formed in 1862. Our guide around the HMAS Sydney II memorial ( the ship sank in 1941 with the loss of all her 600+ crew) was a Liverpudlian who came across to Australia as a £10 Pom back in the late sixties and had stayed ever since!

Shipwrecks was the talk in the WA Museum mutinies, treasure and discovery abound. The old gaol built by convicts still stands and is now an Arts &crafts centre. You still get the feel of the original place though.

Most activity for the youngest members of town is the sea (a continual stream of school trips to the beach all day) and an amazing free adventure / games area built along the sea front. Lunch on the veranda at coffee shop was very pleasant indeed 🙂

One thing really noticeable is that where we have been so far, with Freeo as an exception, Australians seem to go home early. Trying to eat after 8pm is a real challenge to find somewhere open. Turning up at a petrol station at 8.05pm and it’s the night window for payment already operating. Must be all this open air and fine weather lifestyle.

Back in Freemantle by Friday afternoon and again many thanks to Fiona and Mike for putting us up for a few days. A tour around the city we ended up on the dock for a beer. The Queen  Elizabeth was in harbour as well. Fish caught by Mike for dinner, Aberlone, Crayfish and Dhu Fish, all very nice!

Saturday and a tour of Freemantle Prison, which is a listed building and an enormous site. In use from 1850 – 1991 it is an interesting and gruesome tour at the same time.

Well into the the Freemantle lifestyle, after shopping it’s the coffee shop, Apple and Rubarb cake, more shopping), yes  Julie did get a new dress in the last shop) and then it’s off to the beach from a swim. 

Pete & Jules